We're walkin' on the railway
Our plans for Ella had always been 'not much' … it is after-all a little Hill Country town with a reputation as a place just to relax. A misty morning, breakfast with a to-die-for view and a loose plan to check out the Nine Arch Bridge was about it.
After dropping some washing at the little laundry at the top of our hill, we headed into town with the intent of catching a tuk tuk down to see the bridge. While we were trying not to scoff too hard at the outrageous price one driver was asking we met up with an Aussie couple we'd met earlier in the trip. They told us you could walk there quite easily - along the train line "just ignore the sign at the station and follow the other tourists" …. sounded like a much better deal than the one the tuk tuk driver was offering (and he was seriously unimpressed when we waved him off and headed for the station)
Sure enough, there was a sign just next to the station, and sure enough there were a bunch of tourists (and locals) ignoring it, so off we went.
Sometimes there was a ragged little path beside the track, other times quite obvious you needed to walk ON the sleepers and a sign which really did explain exactly why it took 7hrs to get here yesterday. We both commented on how unfortunate it was that the spacing between the sleepers wasn't regular and that it was quite difficult to get into a real rhythm in your stride.
We admired the views, giggled at the ingenuity of the locals with their drink stands and passed a track maintenance man on the way (he was oiling the tracks).
After about 30 minutes (3km along the tracks) of easy walking we came to a tunnel, went through and on exiting were face to face with the iconic Ella Nine Arch Bridge. Completed in 1921, local folk-law tells it that soon after construction on the bridge began, the Great War began in Europe. Steel required for this project (part of the 'Upcountry Railway line" was soon reallocated to the war effort and construction ground to a halt. Not to be deterred, a local builder by the name of P.K Appuhami gathered his troops and completed the bridge using nothing more than stone and cement.
Its a beautiful bridge, perfectly symmetrical and spanning a very deep gorge with a small river at the bottom. Today an enthusiastic (or very stoned) group of local lads were celebrating something at the bottom with drums and lots of singing.
On the far side of the bridge was a small tea plantation. We were both staggered to see just how steep it was and to see a local woman picking leaves.
It was getting on towards morning tea time so we crossed back to the aptly named Nine Arches Coffee Shop for a surprisingly good coffee and for a giggle asked the lady if a train might be coming soon. Yes in about 30minutes.
We drank our coffee and watched a young Japanese guy puncture the quiet with his drone. Obviously this train was not related to the one we caught to Ella yesterday because just on 30minutes later we heard the tell-tale blast of a train horn and the sound of a diesel motor chugging along. Moments later it appeared from the trees - just a short one with no 3rd class sardine tins behind the carriages for the rest of us. This little train also had the 'Observation' carriage at the end with its big end windows for clear views of the scenery. Lots of waving - from the kids at trackside and the adults in the train - with the driver leading by example.
After dropping some washing at the little laundry at the top of our hill, we headed into town with the intent of catching a tuk tuk down to see the bridge. While we were trying not to scoff too hard at the outrageous price one driver was asking we met up with an Aussie couple we'd met earlier in the trip. They told us you could walk there quite easily - along the train line "just ignore the sign at the station and follow the other tourists" …. sounded like a much better deal than the one the tuk tuk driver was offering (and he was seriously unimpressed when we waved him off and headed for the station)
Sure enough, there was a sign just next to the station, and sure enough there were a bunch of tourists (and locals) ignoring it, so off we went.
Sometimes there was a ragged little path beside the track, other times quite obvious you needed to walk ON the sleepers and a sign which really did explain exactly why it took 7hrs to get here yesterday. We both commented on how unfortunate it was that the spacing between the sleepers wasn't regular and that it was quite difficult to get into a real rhythm in your stride.
We admired the views, giggled at the ingenuity of the locals with their drink stands and passed a track maintenance man on the way (he was oiling the tracks).
After about 30 minutes (3km along the tracks) of easy walking we came to a tunnel, went through and on exiting were face to face with the iconic Ella Nine Arch Bridge. Completed in 1921, local folk-law tells it that soon after construction on the bridge began, the Great War began in Europe. Steel required for this project (part of the 'Upcountry Railway line" was soon reallocated to the war effort and construction ground to a halt. Not to be deterred, a local builder by the name of P.K Appuhami gathered his troops and completed the bridge using nothing more than stone and cement.
Its a beautiful bridge, perfectly symmetrical and spanning a very deep gorge with a small river at the bottom. Today an enthusiastic (or very stoned) group of local lads were celebrating something at the bottom with drums and lots of singing.
On the far side of the bridge was a small tea plantation. We were both staggered to see just how steep it was and to see a local woman picking leaves.
It was getting on towards morning tea time so we crossed back to the aptly named Nine Arches Coffee Shop for a surprisingly good coffee and for a giggle asked the lady if a train might be coming soon. Yes in about 30minutes.
We drank our coffee and watched a young Japanese guy puncture the quiet with his drone. Obviously this train was not related to the one we caught to Ella yesterday because just on 30minutes later we heard the tell-tale blast of a train horn and the sound of a diesel motor chugging along. Moments later it appeared from the trees - just a short one with no 3rd class sardine tins behind the carriages for the rest of us. This little train also had the 'Observation' carriage at the end with its big end windows for clear views of the scenery. Lots of waving - from the kids at trackside and the adults in the train - with the driver leading by example.
Ignoring the tuk tuk drivers keen for a fare back to town we headed back onto the tracks and through the tunnel towards town. On the way we were overtaken by the local ice-cream vendor who'd been doing a brisk trade at the bridge.
Arriving back at Ella station, just in time for the next train. It sat at the station for a few minutes and lots of people took photos with their foot up on the side of the German made locomotive before it too clattered off down the track.
Back in town looking for a bit of lunch we came across this:
Tomorrow we've got a late morning taxi booked to Udawalawe and a bit of elephant spotting in the National Park.
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